Yohji Yamamoto and his avant garde spirit

Yohji Yamamoto and his avant garde spirit
Photo by Nicolas Guerin/Contour by Getty Images

I was reading an interview with Yohji Yamamoto over on the The Talks and found this particular part inspiring. Have you found something of your own?

I simply cannot stand people’s tendency to become conservative. There’s always a move back to established conventions, otherwise upcoming waves would be soon categorized as common sense. Even the term avant-garde – avant-garde is now just a tiny fashion category. It became so cheap and pretentious. I hate it. But still, I strongly believe in the avant-garde spirit: to voice opposition to traditional values. It is not just a youthful sentiment; I live my life by it. Rebellion. You will only be able to oppose something and find something of your own after traveling the long road of tradition.

Bobby

Bobby Solomon

October 26, 2011 / By

RRL’s Take On 1920s Australian Mug Shots

RRL Mug Shots

RRL Mug Shots

RRL Mug Shots

RRL Mug Shots

Earlier this year, a collection of 1920s Australian mug shots surfaced and made the rounds on the Internet, where people were taken aback by how visually beautiful and even “cool” these mug shots looked. As you see above, there are a few of the 1920s mug shots and…a few impostors! Two of the above are actually shots from the current RRL lookbook. Can you spot which are authentic and which are imitation?

The rugged Ralph Lauren lifestyle brand currently features these looks on their website, showcasing this season’s styles for the brand. The concept is genius, as their aesthetic lends itself so brilliantly to their look. Of course these are admittedly a little silly as they are recycling an idea that was used to document criminals, but the execution of the idea in such a truly authentic looking manner is quite a feat. I really did have trouble figuring out which were from the 1920s and which were from 2011 when inserting these photos, but–if you haven’t figured it out already–the second and fourth photo are the impostors.

Catch more 1920s mug shot inspired photos on their website and, if you have a few extra Benjamins in your pocket, be sure to pick up some of the looks.

KYLE

KYLE FITZPATRICK

September 19, 2011 / By

Nothing Major, A New Lifestyle Brand Out of Chicago

Nothing Major

Nothing Major

Nothing Major

Nothing Major

Launched today by Chris Kaskie & my studiomate Mike Renaud, Nothing Major is a cheeky & irreverent line of artist-commissioned, gender neutral tees & accessories made with careful attention to quality, responsible production & aesthetic integrity. So many small details to fall in love with: surprising typography elements, a random pocket, or specific illustration style. I love the logo too, those chunky round serifs fell me every damn time. The website is well worth the trip, especially the extra-thoughtful section that features interviews with each of the contributing artists. I’m eagle eyeing that smart little tote bag! So many pockets it has!

Margot

September 9, 2011 / By

Peter Blake For Fred Perry By Hint

Peter Blake For Fred Perry By Hint

Peter Blake For Fred Perry By Hint

Peter Blake For Fred Perry By Hint

We live in a very interesting time where art and fashion are colliding to create some really stupid and some really interesting things. Yet, one era of art that is constantly getting beat down by its own nature is Pop Art. Low brow fashion retailers like Forever 21, H&M, and Urban Outfitters are constantly recycling the catalogues and concepts of Warhol and Lichtenstein for new t-shirt material, bringing nothing new to either the clothing nor the art beyond creating a bastardized cheap product.

Thankfully, people have stepped in to rectify what is happening to Pop Art and have even created new collisions with fashion and art. UK based fashion retailer Fred Perry has collaborated with living British Pop Artist legend, Peter Blake. Together they have have created a little collaboration entitled Blank Canvas, which ties Blake’s aesthetic with Perry’s rich polos as the “blank canvas.”

In the above video, Hint sits down with Blake himself to speak about Pop Art and its influence on fashion (particularly, British fashion). Blake has some really remarkable things to say, explaining his intention behind a lot of his imagery (the target being commentary on Jasper Johns’ Target), the Mod movement and its relationship to fashion, his work as an artist (and current work!), and how he has contributed to Pop Art. Blake is a fascinating man and is remarkably sharp and busy for a near octogenarian.

Although I must say the clothing coming out of the collaboration are not mind-blowing, they really are a great representative of Blake and Perry, two creators who have a distinct voice in the visual world. Take a minute and watch this interview with Blake and, by all means, pass it around to anyone who may in fact be bastardizing his visual lexicon for cheap fashion hounds.

KYLE

KYLE FITZPATRICK

August 25, 2011 / By

Rodarte for Opening Ceremony Fall 2011

Rodarte for Opening Ceremony Fall 2011

Rodarte for Opening Ceremony Fall 2011

Rodarte for Opening Ceremony Fall 2011

Rodarte for Opening Ceremony Fall 2011

A few days ago, I caught a bite sized article on New York Magazine’s The Cut about the new Rodarte for Opening Ceremony line. As always, Rodarte is constantly creating compelling, interesting, and beautiful clothing that seems to have been pulled from both the 19th century fashion world as well as the 25th century fashion world, then smashed together for wonderful clothes.

This combination in their new collection spins their trademark decaying garments with (sometimes disconnected) graphic patterns and the aesthetic of a woman in a Degas painting. The resulting pieces are, of course, very modern and surprisingly light. The womenswear are all composed from lightweight, crepe-like fabrics for their dresses and tops. Yet, although a decidedly lighter line, they still retain their gothic points with coats that look like something a crow would wear and deep, blood red stockings. It seems that, when they aren’t using a Degas-like graphic pattern for the collection, they are in fact updating and beautifying the woman in his The Absinthe Drinker or the women in his Women On A Cafe Terrace.

The Mulleavy sisters are also bringing some great things to menswear, my favorite being the shirt seen in the top photo which–again–seems to be sampling from Degas’ visual vocabulary. Being as they’ve only been doing menswear for a little less than two years, the efforts in their newest collection are very well done: wonderful shirts, smart pants, smart suit jackets–very Rodarte, while not being Rodarte. I’m very interested to see where they keep heading with their menswear as this is, you know, not whole-y (or holy?) sweaters as they had previously been offering men.

If you’d like to see more of their looks, take a peek at their official Facebook page. You can preview the collection with only the admission of a Like. And, for larger photos, take a hop over We Are Selecters, where I grabbed these photos from.

KYLE

KYLE FITZPATRICK

August 12, 2011 / By

‘In Fashion’ Documentary Series

In Fashion Documentary Show Studio

In Fashion Documentary Show Studio

In Fashion Documentary Show Studio

I’ve written about SHOWstudio before, but I wanted to share a new project they have that is looking like it’s going to be really cool. The project is called In Fashion and is the brainchild of SHOWstudio Fashion Director Alex Fury.

The project is an intimate documentary series where Fury sits down with some of fashion’s biggest, most progressive names to ask them about fashion–how they feel about fashion, their history with fashion, and what they do in fashion. The documentaries aren’t necessarily process pieces, but are instead really nice thought bubbles from the designers and tastemakers themselves just talking about the industry that they are so belovedly entrenched in. The interviews are shot in high contrast black and white with occasional complimentary set pieces (a fainting couch, some flowers, a purse, etc.), providing a stark, somewhat fashion devoid space for conversation. Instead of Anna Dello Russo’s iconic bright red cherry hat stealing your attention, you are busy listening to her heavy Italian accent espouse her thoughts on her own image.

The series has gathered some amazing creatives. Among those selected are Jason Wu, Daphne Guinness, Walter Van Beirendonck, Proenza Schouler, Sam McKnight, Gareth Pugh, and many, many others. Above you will find the trailer for the series, which gives you bites from many of the people they’ve already spoken with. SHOWstudio seems to be updating the project fairly regularly and encourage you to follow them on Twitter to get updates on new entries.

KYLE

KYLE FITZPATRICK

August 11, 2011 / By

An Inside Look at Nudie Jeans F/W 2011 Collection

An Inside Look at Nudie Jeans F/W 2011 Collection

An Inside Look at Nudie Jeans F/W 2011 Collection

Around a month ago I was invited to Nudie’s showroom in NYC to view the Swedish brand’s fall/winter collection. I happily accepted and sauntered down to their Chelsea office along with Marisa Zupan of The Significant Other, both of us keen to see what the brand had to offer for the upcoming colder seasons.

Even prior to this visit I had such fondness for Nudie, particularly their denim. I first came across the brand in my late teens not long after their 2001 launch – a time when I’d begun to challenge my stale buying habits; waking to the prospect of life after High School’s insular pack mentality. Discovering Nudie’s denim provided a much needed stepping stone to defining my own style. They were one of the first brands (outside of the realms of Levi’s et al) that I understood to offer a truly expansive range of fits and washes, expressing a rare enthusiasm for individuality within an over-saturated market.

In stark contrast to my appreciation of the denim line, Nudie’s other attempts at clothing failed to have such an impact on me. Though there was never anything ‘wrong’ with their efforts beyond denim, the clothing consistently felt like a detached, an underwhelming addition to their indigo interests. Upon walking into their showroom, I was immediately met by a collection of attire that no longer felt forced, but rather united by simplicity and a previously unseen sense of confidence.

An Inside Look at Nudie Jeans F/W 2011 Collection

The denim was great as always, offering an interesting range of washes that seem very believable. Often brands over-distress their washed denim, leaving it with a cheap, artificial feel, yet Nudie have always had a solid sense of awareness when it came to manipulating their denim, with F/W demonstrating their continued investment in creating an authentic wash that appears true to the trials of daily wear.

An Inside Look at Nudie Jeans F/W 2011 Collection

The clothing benefits from a palette made up of various charcoals and indigos with several sparks of vibrant pastel colour, the later breaking up the darkness without marring the slumber of the calmer shades. The collection also includes quality shirting that lends itself perfectly to layering; items such as a light cotton henley sat alongside more a dense wool overshirts, with their signature denim jackets making an appearance in new washes with beautiful textured knitwear.

An Inside Look at Nudie Jeans F/W 2011 Collection

Overall the collection provides insight into a maturing brand, showing a drive to evolve that can only be realised with time. They look to have grown up from an early grunge aesthetic into a brand that can provide clothing for a wider more discerning audience.

Johnny

July 18, 2011 / By

A New Season, A New Kit: The Premier League, 2011 / 2012

Frank Lampard - Chelsea Away

While we are dreading lockouts in both American football and basketball, most of Europe is celebrating the return of its favorite sport: soccer (hereafter called “football”). While I have been getting immaculately sunburned, manning a grill and imbibing as many cold beverages as possible this summer, training grounds across the European continent are bustling with activity.

Fortunately for us, this also means design teams at all the great sportswear companies have to bring new designs to the pitch. Here are a few of the new jerseys in Barclay’s Premier League, the top league in England (and the most entertaining in the world, sorry La Liga!)

Chelsea Away:
As you can see above, Chelsea’s new away kit lacks verve and ingenuity – just like their midfield. Sorry Londoners, but this look is as dated as Frank Lampard’s time as one of the league’s best midfielders. On that note, nice pose Frank! Roman Abramovich, why spend close to $20 million to get a new manager but allow such an awkward shirt to be designed? The grid pattern resembles the back of the net – something the players will certainly hit. This design, on the other hand, misses.

Liverpool Away Jersey 2012

Liverpool Away:
Now we’re talking. This is a sharp looking kit. Liverpool’s iconic all red home kit is already the best in the league (not that I’m biased or anything). This grey, black, white and dark red trim looks stunning and really is a step in the right direction for a club that has changed owners and might soon change stadiums. You’ll Never Walk Alone with this jersey on your back.

Luka Modric, Gareth Bale, Rafael Van Der Vaart - Tottenham Away / Alternate / Home

Tottenham’s 3 kits:
Puma really hit the nail on the head with these three simple yet elegant jerseys. They are in the last year of their contract with Tottenham Hotspur and brought a modern, fresh look to Tottenham’s traditional white and blues. Out of all the London clubs, this design feels the cleanest… and the most likely to get dirty. Sadly, UnderArmour has picked up the next five years of kit design, surely leading to a decline in this kits beauty.

Theo Walcott - Arsenal Away

Arsenal Away:
With so many stars leaving the North London club, it only makes sense that their away jersey be bright and flamboyant to attract some attention. This away kit resembles recent Polo Ralph Lauren short sleeve shirts with a bold diagonal stripe. A keeper and a real fashion statement for Gunners fans everywhere.

Alec

Alec Rojas

July 12, 2011 / By

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